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HELP!! The new build that worked fine out the case doesn't work in the case!

Q: HELP!! The new build that worked fine out the case doesn't work in the case!

Ok, now I have a new build that has All new parts, brand new case and everything, it works fine when it's partially screwwed in or outside the case, but once I put everything else in (pci devices) it doesn't turn on? What could be the problem?

Preferred Solution: HELP!! The new build that worked fine out the case doesn't work in the case!

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A: HELP!! The new build that worked fine out the case doesn't work in the case!

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I have a Dell Optiplex GX270. When I press the power button, the power button light turns amber, I hear some fans spinning, and the CD drive spinning. However, it never gets to the boot screen (or any screen). If I open the case and press the power button, however, the power button turns green and the computer works fine (loads all the way up and functions like normal). If I close the case after it has started, it continues to run fine. I'm guessing / hoping it's not the mother board or power supply that has directly gone bad... but maybe there is a connection or something? that changes from when it's closed to when it's open. I've heard of something like... the motherboard is shorting out by touching the case... but I'm not really sure where to look for that / how. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!

A:Solved: Computer boots fine when case is open, but won't boot when case is closed.

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I have an APEVIA X-JUPITER-JR S-Type X-JPJST-MG Metallic Grey SECC Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail case with a six pin firewire on top, along with two USB and two audio hubs and i'm trying to transfer high quality video from my Sony DCR-HC96 to my computer with a firewire cable I bought. I'm pretty sure I connected the cable properly, as there are only two places on my motherboard that fit the hub's wire. One says audio and my motherboard stops beeping if I disconnect it. Both USB hubs work fine, and so do both audio hubs. The wire looks fine and plugs in snugly, but I have no other ways of testing it, so I can't tell if its the cable or the case. Nothing seems to happen most of the time when I plug in the firewire. My camcorder has never recognized the firewwire cable (USB works, but has lower quality). Twice my computer has given me a balloon saying found new USB device, then saying USB device did not install properly and might not work, that only happens every millionth time though.
If possible, I would like to get my firewire cable working, or find a way to get the same quality on USB. If not, I would look into buying a firewire expansion on my computer.

A:Case Firewire doesn't work

First, let me say i've never tested (or i think even used) 1394 firewire but still some things come to mind just thought to pass along

I think power related issues are often cause of Firewire, Network and USB connections

1) Network LAN problems have sometimes been resolved by disabling 1394 connections. If only-for-the-heck-of-it, try disabling your LAN and wireless when trying the firewire
2) Connect all device AC adapters when testing. Especially Including any for your camera
3) USB device not recognized issues are, in particular, often related to power issues I'd add)
>> Cameras, are high powered USB devices, requiring a high-powered USB port (500mA) vs a low powered USB device (only needs up to a 100mA)
>> But i've also seen issue when devices really want more then 500mA and/or the computer doesn't supply the USB 500mA spec. You might also try buying a self-powered USB hub (comes with an AC adapter) AND it can provide ports that EXCEEDS USB spec (e.g. my Targus hub has 2 ports that supply 1000mA)..

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Hi guys,

I'm going to install Win XP on my computer (I had win 7 but had some problem with installing the HP printer on it and so I decide to install XP because that printer seems to be installed properly on XP).
Now When I put the XP CD on the CD driver, it says press a ker to boot from CD and I press the Enter key, (now the keyboard works) after that, within installation time when that I should press Enter to install XP, this time the keyboard doesn't work.
My guess is that the ps/2 port of the case has problem (it's old and somewhat has been broad).
Now what is the solution in your point of view please?

My system manufacturer is "ECS" and the system model is "945pl-A".

PS: When I what to enter to BIOS, (on the top of second black and white screen it has been written that "Press shift-F10 to configure) and when I press these two I enter to an environment that seems to be the BIOS but it has very few options! I'm not sure is it BIOS, or how to go into BIOS in that motherboard.

A:ps/2 port of the case doesn't work properly

Hiya mate ... Do not think the BIOS is going to be any help .. Read the Link below its a very long shot fourth Post down ..
installation - Keyboard does not work during Windows XP install - Super User

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I have recently custom built a PC using an ASUS M5A78L-M/USB3 motherboard in a CiT 2206 MIDI Case.
I have downloaded VIA drivers from the motherboard website I linked above, but uninstalled the program that came with it (It didn't manage audio very well and prevented my speakers from working :/ ; also my front panel microphone didn't work before uninstalling this program either)

Anyway, my problem is that when I put a microphone into the microphone jack on my case (front of case) It doesn't work and windows doesn't detect any recording hardware. When I plug a microphone into the motherboard, It works straight away without a problem. I really need the front panel to work for Skype and other audio recording needs as my cable will not reach around the back of my case.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance

A:Case's audio panel microphone doesn't work

Are you sure the jacks are connected properly, double check all connections

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Help!! I built yet another Athlon 1800, albatron motherboard, pci ge force card, ibm deskstar 80gb hard drive, and 265 pc2100 ram. So, I was installing win XP and it was paritioning my drive. It got to 5% and then the whole system shut down and wouldn't even turn on!! I still won't turn on....what's wrong?

A:HELP!! The new build that worked fine until I tried to install windows XP!!!

Check where the power cord connects to the back of the computer. Push it firmly into place, wiggle it, etc.

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It seems to me that once in a blue moon, there will be a program that will work fine for a while, but then later refuse to run until I reinstall windows. The program that refuses to run this time is called Nebula (don't worry, it's freeware). I've even redownloaded a fresh copy and I get the same result. I double click the icon and nothing happens.

I would watch the processes in the task manager while I tried opening it. The process would appear for a moment, then disappear. I've opened up and watched Process Explorer (www.sysinternals.com) carefully. I've taken note on what processes are running when I'm trying to open Nebula, by holding Enter with Nebula selected. The only process that is consistently working while I'm trying to open it, is explorer.exe, and I doubt that is the culprit.

Since I can't find anything in the processes, should I look for something in the registry? What else can I do to troubleshoot when this kind of stuff happens? Maybe it broke from one of the Windows updates?

A:Program worked fine before, won't work now.

Hello eriknoc, Welcome to TSF!

Please try this workaround (you will need your Windows? XP SP2 CD.

(In the event that you do not have a Windows? XP CD with SP2, you will need to 'borrow' one from a friend or colleague, as the manufacturer's "Recovery Discs" will not work in this instance.)

Insert the Windows? XP CD in your drive. (Hold down the Shift Key to prevent it from starting.)

Go Start > Run ...in the box type in sfc /scannow ?please take note of the space between the sfc and the /.

This is the System File Checker...it will scan all the Windows? core system files to ensure that they are in their respective correct places, and if not replace them from the CD.

During the scan you may be asked to Insert the CD, if this happens just go retry and let it do its thing.

One important point: While sfc is running, it is not advisable to do any other work, or have any browsers/programs running on the computer, until the scan is complete. (This process will generally take around 45-65 minutes to complete).

Once finished, remove the CD and reboot your machine...all should be "Normal" (hopefully).

Please post back with the result, or if there are any further queries/concerns.

Kind Regards,

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I have an Acer Aspire X1700 (Details
It's about 2 1/2 years old now. Came with Windows Vista, I upgraded it to Windows 7. Also has a newer video card than what came with it.

Anyway, The PSU fan is getting really obnoxious, it gets really loud (more or less like a lawn mower). I have taken the thing apart and have tried every suggestion given to quiet it down, which it does for a whole week or two. This is a small form factor PC, so to even take the power supply out you have to basically take out everything else just to get to it. I have looked for replacements but they are very obsolete. It's only 220W anyway, so i'd like something a little more powerful.

What I want to do is get a larger case that I can use the same hardware is (motherboard, drives, etc) and purchase a larger power supply for that case. 220W really limits the PC. The small case holds a lot of heat even with all fans cleaned and working properly. Even just taking a CD/DVD out that was in it is very hot. I want a case with better airflow than this one.
I really am not sure what kind of case to get that will meet my needs. I don't want anything really fancy. If possible I'd like to get it off newegg.com

Any suggestions would be great.

A:Solved: Replacing Small Form Factor Case with bigger case / new PSU

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I created a list of companies & phone #'s etc. in access 2000. The letters are upper case. How do I change upper case listings to lower case?

A:Access 2000- Change upper case to lower case

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I want to replace my laptop pavilion g6_1375sx body fully ,So please tell me from where I can get ?

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I would like to know if it is possible to configure outlook 2003 to automatically change lower case i to auto upper case I whilst typing my emails

It does it on my pc at work (could be cos its a better version of outlook)but I would love to know if I can have the same facility on my home pc

I'm using Vista and windows 7

Thanks in advance

A:Solved: Auto change lower case to upper case

Look at the Auto Correct options.

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this is my case and i want to get a motherboard that is compatible with a Intel Core I5-4460 3.2GHz (Quad Core)

list all of them and there price thx

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hi all ,

i have a desktop

i changed my broken case to a new case like

i removed the HDD and the motherboard and the CD-rom ..etc and installed them to a new case

but when i press the switch button it works normally , and the screen display normally and there are no beeps , but after like 20 second my computer turns off automatically ! ,

what may cause this issue ?

A:i replaced all of my computer components from my broken case to other case

could be overheating CPU. Did you apply fresh Thermal paste to the HSF after reinstalling the motherboard? Is it tight and secure? Did you blow out all the dirt, dust and debris from the fans' fins?

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sorry about the long post
I will be buying a new case next month
tons of cases to choose from .
looking in the 150$ range

Thermaltake Level 10 GT (VN10001W2N) Black Steel SECC / Plastic ATX Full Tower
Computer Case with Four Fans-1x 200mm Colorshift side fan, 1x 200mm Colorshift
top fan, 1x 200mm Colorshift front fan and 1x 140mm rear fan
Thermaltake Level 10 GT Snow Edition (VN10006W2N) White and Black SECC / Plastic
ATX Full Tower Computer Case with Four Fans-1x 200mm Colorshift side fan, 1x 200mm
Colorshift top fan, 1x 200mm Colorshift front fan and 1x 140mm rear fan.
these are supposed to be the bomb but way out of my range

keep coming back to this one but concerned about reviews that say the front door hinges (3 doors covering 5.25 drive bays)
are plastic and break easy.(washable filters in doors).
with bottom PSU mount are cables long enough
Antec DF-85 Black Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
139$ at Newegg

all the reviews talk about how you have to disassemble this case to remove the washable fan filters on this one
Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Unbeatable Gaming Case 159$
from pictures both Antec cases don't have a lot of room behind motherboard for cable management

Corsair Carbide Series 400R Graphite grey and black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case
saw this Corsair on the ASUS motherboard install --Youtube video
has large bulge in side of case to route cable management behind motherboard/ plenty o... Read more

A:help with build case

Everyone has featutres that like or dislike with all these cases. Any of those you have listed are going to be a good case. I do a lot of research before I buy anything like that. I decide what features I want and start narrowing it down from there. Check reviews from other sources that will give an idea of the features too. I don't take too much stock in Newegg reviews a lot of them are coming from inexperienced builders and will do things like give it one egg because it was damaged in shipping or they really didn't know how to bui;ld a computer in the first place.
I like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133191 because it had all the features that I wanted including external sata so that I can just pop a HDD in and out of it. There are other cases that have this feature too.
Most of the new cases have a lot of room for cable management and the orientation of the HDD's towith the sata and power connections to the right side of the case is really nice.

The videos on Newegg and youtube give you a good idea of what the case is like. Have fun choosing one.

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I am planning on building a gaming PC with a budget of around $900, I have chosen the Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 Ti graphics card, Intel Core i5-2500K processor and probably the MSI P67A-GD55 motherboard. Of the cases listed below, which would be the best for my system? Keep in mind value for money please, thanks.






A:What case is the best for my build?

I would say the Asgard II.
The case will be able to fit your graphics card and has very good airflow (me having the Asgard I case).

Hope this helps!

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I have a used tower that was used as a server. What I want to know: is it possible to build two computers in one case and have them share monitor and printer. I have limited space and want to keep things I don't wish to be vunerable, separate from what I use to go online.

Is this possible or should I junk the mid-tower?
Thank you.

A:Build two computers in one case.

you can have two operating systems on a computer.....but only you can only run one at a time...

is this what you want to know?

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I'm currently getting ready to build a new system but this is only the second time i will of built one and I'm looking to get as much feedback from people who have had more experience than me.

Asus P5Q PRO
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6700, 2.66 GHz 1066MHz 8MB Cache
4GB (2x2GB)
512MB Palit HD4850, PCI-E 2.0(x16) x2
Vista Home Prem Sp1 64-bit OEM

I have 3 HDD, CD/DVD RW, Monitor (but i may get a new one and run 2) and a case from my previous build but I am going to need a new PSU and I'm a bit uncertain about what wattage to go for, from what i do know i think i need a PSU thats about 800-900W but i was hoping someone who understands this better could give me a more accurate picture.

My case was a Gigabyte 3d aurora and while this is a very fine case, the positioning of the HDD bays obstructed the intake fan at the front and the whole cooling was made very poor. I ended up running the Pc with the side pannel off, which of course ment it was very noisy. Could anyone recomend a new case that would offer adequate cooling without being too noisy and of course is still of good quality?

I quite like the look of the Coolermaster Cosmos cases but im not sure which if either would be best. Maybe you can tell that i like the big cases (far easier to work in and are a good size for where i keep them.

A:New build, Feedback, PSU and Case help

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Hello All:

I just purchased a new Zalman HD135 case in which I want install my HTPC, which had previously been working perfectly (other than a glitch or two with Vista).

I'm now at my absolute wits' end on the install. If anyone can provide help, I would be most grateful (and a 12-pack to the first to provide the solution).

Here's my rig prior the HD135 install (which was working perfectly):

Generic mid-tower case
Pentium D 930
2 Gig of RAM (DDRII)
Gigabyte GA-8I945GMH-RH MOBO
Seasonic 430 PSU
1 SATA drive running Windows Vista RC1
1 PATA drive as storage
Sony DVD-ROM player
Vistiontek Video Card based on ATI 1300.

I touched absolutely NOTHING and installed the above in the HD135 but use now a CoolerMaster 550W PSU (see earlier discussion on compatibility of my prior Seasonic PSU). I think (and still believe) I connected all of the connections appropriately and following happens upon power up:

VFD turns on with the Zalman welcome screen
Power light above power button comes on to a solid blue
CPU fans turns on (CPU seems to be generating heat because the sink becomes warm pretty quickly)
Sounds/feels like disks are spinning
DVD-ROM has a flashing light on front
Power seems to be going to the keyboard (I get at least a light if I turn number lock on or off)
but . . .
No video (neither on monitor or on tv, whether using VGA or DVI out, mobo connection or pc card connection)
No BIOS (as best I can tell given t... Read more

A:Help with System Re-Build (New Case)

Unplug a replug everything and try it!!!!

If no joy, strip it down to the bare essentials, mobo, psu, cpu, ram, graphics card, and power switch and see if it runs!!!!

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I want to reopen my case Case ID - [edited] which was raised for last month. It was assigned to a very unprofessional service agent who has rescheduled twice and not yet solved the issue and closed the case. 
Please escalate the issue and reopen my case.
Very poor service by hp

A:Reopen a Support case Case ID - [edited]

This is not the place to do that. Your message is not going to HP Support folks who can do anything with your case.  

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I want to reopen my case Case ID - 4773952302 which was raised for last month. It was assigned to a very unprofessional service agent who has rescheduled twice and not yet solved the issue and closed the case.  Please escalate the issue and reopen my case.  Regards,MayureshVery poor service by hp

A:Reopen a Support case Case ID - 4773952302

This is not the place to do that. Your message is not going to HP Support folks who can do anything with your case.  

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Now another question comes up regarding modifying the cooling of my case/ computer etc.

I was wanting to carve two 3 1/2" holes in the top of my case, for two 12cm fans. Now I know fully how to do this, however, I was wondering which direction the air flow should go. Should the fans blow into my case? (Like I suspect) Or should I have them blow out?

The orange highlights are the fans I wish to add. Which direction should I have the air flow setup?

A:Case airflow question before modifying case

I would have them sucking air out. Hot air rises, and the side panel fan will hit the VGA's mb, etc and spread out, also they are right next to the PSU. You wont have any really big difference either in or out , but I would have those two pulling the hot air that manages to make it to the top of the case out. and negative pressure tend to run a bit cooler overall.

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I am building my first PC, and have chosen these parts:

Power Supply: Corsair CX750 ATX 80+

Mobo: MSI ATX DDR3 2133 970

CPU: AMD FX 4350

RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8gb (2 x 4gb) DDR3 1600 MHz PC3 12800 240-Pin DDR3 Dual Channel

Video Card: MSI GTX 960 Gaming 4G

Hard Drive: WD Black 500GB SATA 6 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 64MB Cache

Optical Drive: Asus 24x DVD-RW Serial-ATA Internal OEM

So are these parts good, compatible, and somthing I would want for a gaming PC?

As far as a case goes, I have a budget of $50 for this. I want something with decent ventilation, and a design thats not just a big block. So like somthing with some angles or somthing. If it has a window or glow that would be even better.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated!

A:Feedback for my first computer build; also help with case

Also, will I need to buy anything else for the computer aside from these parts? Like cables or anything? I intend to run 4 monitors on this computer.

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Trying my first DIY with a FOXCONN C51XEM2AA MOB and I have a few glitches I can't find answers for. My Thermaltake VA8000BWS Super Tower CASE has a PSU supporter that even with pictures supplied of how it's hooked into the case, I can't fiure out where or how it goes in. Is anybody fimiliar with this case that might have some insight.

Also the case wiring pins don't match my motherboards pins in two instances.

In one instance the speaker wire from the case is 4 pins with the two center pins empty, but on the MOB the speaker connectror J1E1 is three pins of gnd, spkr, & +3.3v. So only one pin will be connected no matter how you plug it in ? Good news is the MOB has it's own speaker so it doesn't need to be connected per FOXCONN tech support.

The 'Power Led" case coonector is three pin with the center open yet the MOB is two pins + & - so only one can be hooked as is ?

Any thoughts on these issues will be highly appreciated. Thanks

A:Thermaltake Case & DIY PC Build Problem

I have had a few cases that sometimes don't match up with the MB connectors. usually I'll push out the connectors from the plastic housing where they are and rearrange them to match the MB's connectors pinout.

As far as the PSU portion I don't know as I have not used this case but look at a review I found -

until I got to the installation of the PSU. Nowhere does it say to remove the ceiling fan (which fortunately I had done anyway) and, here's the killer -- oh yeah, that seemingly fixed clear plastic ceiling fan BRACKET will also slide up and off. Just about killed myself trying to install the PSU around it and cut up my hands in the process. Once you realise the bracket is removable (no screws or anything, just figure it out for yourself) it was clear sailing.
Another example is a long brace shaped like a toothbrush to hold the PSU in place -- the extreme close up pix in the manual don't actually give you any context as to where to put it. Just huge grey lines. It's more trial and error at working out where it goes. Experienced users probably never face this issue! Click to expand...

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Hi everyone,

I have finished putting together a media computer build that I hope is as cool and quiet as possible:

Mobo: Gigabyte GA-MA785GPM-UD2H
CPU: Athlon II x2 240
HDD: 1.5TB WD Eco Green, partitioned for OS
OS: Windows 7 using MCE
PSU: Corsair 450VX
CPU Cooler (only if needed): Scythe Orochi
TV Tuner Card: Black Gold BGT3595 (when release next month)
RAM: 2x2GB Corsair DDR800
Optical Drive: LG BluRAy Player

All I have left to do is choose a case. I like the idea of the Remote Fusion Remote Max for its good reviews for low noise but have heard that the Silverstone SST-LC16M is an even better case - though quite expensive!

Can anyone vouch for either of these cases or suggest a better alternative?

Your help would be very much appreciated.

A:Recommended case for my HTPC build.

Here are some ideas...............
Try to avoid the microatx cases.
You really want something that can handle a full size atx power
supply to make sure you meet the power requirements for the
Other than that,it's really a matter of personal preference.

Think the silverstone is expensive?
Look at this......
ZALMAN Black Aluminum HD160XT Plus ATX Media Center / HTPC Case - Retail
Integrated 7" touchscreen monitor.

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I am planning to build an acrylic case for my computer. I attached a sketchup model of a design. Any design improvements? Is there anything I need to know about working with acrylic? Thanks for the input,

A:Planning to build an acrylic case

Hi Techno,
I just built an acrylic case build. I was concerned about static buildup, and heat ,as acrylic is about as conductive as peanut butter. neither has happened. as a matter of fact, this case is the coolest (temp) i have ever built. I have pics of it on TS gallery if your interested. and the static buildup just didnt happen either, even this winter.I would really be interested in seeing your design,but for some reason the zip file take me to the 'unknown file type' website. I would say the biggest thing is to make sure you have superior ventilation. I have 5 120mm fans and one 80mm on top blowing on my memory modules.

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I got a new M900 case with a DVD-RW drive (nothing else) and I want to put a NON-Lenovo motherboard and PSU in it as a project. What size motherboard? I'm assuming Micro-ATX.What kind of PSU? Thinking a slimline PSU (whatever that is). Thanks! 

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I want to build my own gaming computer with hopefully a i5 or i7 intel chip but I don;t know if the case and motherboard are good or if the motherboard fits within the case.

The Case is a Coolermaster CM Storm Range Scout with a Coolermaster Silent Pro Modular 700W and the motherboard is a Intel DQ45CB Socket 775 Motherboard. I would like to know if these are good products and also if they would fit in one another as I want to build a good midrange gaming computer. I also do like Coolermaster in general. Also I wouldn't mind having some feedback on a good processor?

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I am going to be re-building my computer with a new motherboard, CPU, RAM, graphics card, power supply and SSD boot drive. I will be re-using my case, optical drives and several hard drives. I have the Windows7 Pro OEM installation disk that I used 4 years ago to build my existing (but now dead) system. Will I run into activation problems if I use the old disk to do a fresh install on the new system? Is that even a good idea or would I be better to buy a new installation disk that might have a lot of the updates etc. already on it?

Thanks for any help

A:New build in old case: Do I need to buy a new copy of Windows?

A OEM Windows 7 is not transferable to another computer that has the items you listed replaced.
If you had a full retail version of Windows 7 you could move the operating system as long as it is only on one system at one time.

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I currently have this (and don't want them to collect any dust:
Asus Motherboard
Quad Processor
DDR Memory

Plus a couple hard drives, but absolutely nothing else. Since this is new to me, I'm asking:

1 - Is there a way the more experienced users would suggest going about a new case and how to know the appropriate power supply to buy.

2 - I bought the MB used from newegg.com, and it didn't come with any wires/connectors. Can you tell me what I'd need to fully be ready when I have all the components?


A:New build case & power supply recommendations

I havnt done this in a while but here it goes.....

If you dont have the propor heatsink/fan combo you will need one of those for your processor.

For your needs just get a quality 500w PSU by Antec, Silverstone, Thermaltake ect ect. No $20 bargain buys. If you plan on putting in some super fancy graphics card, take the minumum requirments for that card off the box and add 100 watts.

Wires you will need are just your SATA cables.

The PSU should come with all you need to connect it to your motherboard.

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My new build works outside the case, but I still can't get it to even power up inside. I'm convinced something is causing a short, but I can't determine the cause.

Stats because this is my first post:

Case: Cooler Master HAF912
Fans: CM Megaflow 200mm (2x front & top), CM 120mm (rear)
PSU: CM eXtreme Power Plus RS500 500W
Mobo: ASRock Extreme3 Gen3 Z68
CPU: Intel Core i3-2120 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA1155
CPU Cooler: CM V6GT
RAM: Team Xtreem Dark Series 8GB (2x4) DDR3 1600
GPU: ZOTAC ZT-20313-10L GeForce 210 1GB
SSD: Corsair Force Series 3 60GB SATA III SSD
Optical: Samsung 22x DVD Burner SH-222BB/BEBE
Wireless: Linksys WMP54GS Wireless-G Adapter
OS: Windows 7 Home 64-bit

All the internal parts aside from the wireless card are brand new, and work completely fine outside of the case. The only thing I can think of is that the motherboard isn't screwed into all the standoffs, only the outer four. Does this actually matter?

A:Solved: New build won't boot in case: what am I missing?

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A new set of my hardware just arrived today. However, I can't install the PSU in the case. The hole on the PSU and the whole on the case doesn't match. Is it something wrong with the case, the PSU or me? Please help.




A:Solved: PSU doesn't fit the case

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I've been looking for a new case and want USB 3.0 I've come to the realization it is much cheaper to buy a USB 2.0 case and add a PCI-E adapter to give USB 3 ports. Is there any down side to doing that? For example would the USB 3 ports run slower since there connected through PCI-E?

A:Adding USB 3.0 to a case that doesn't have one

I'm no expert on this, but AFAIK the PCIe interface should be fast enough. If you read about PCIe specifications on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express) the speed is much higher than the 5Gbps USB3 can reach (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#USB_3.0).

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Ok so my problem is that after my CPU was somehow reaching 100 degrees on games and around 60 idle, I thought that the video output was simply dying to prevent the CPU from melting. So I bought a new case and just upgraded (CoolerMaster Scout) upgrading from the CoolerMaster Elite 300 I think it was. So even after this my CPU is now running at a nice(ish) temp of 50 degrees on load. I currently have 2 problems:
1. The problem of my video output just going dead is still there after checking MB temp, GFX card temps and CPU temps so I have no idea what is causing it to keep doing this.
2. With my new case I have one connector left which is a 4 pin power one for one of my fans in the case, the only problem is that it is a 4 pin in which you are supposed to put a 4 pin into, as in that one has the holes in, but I have nothing to put into them. All other ones are the opposite of that and I have plugged all those in.

If anyone has any help it would be much appreciated. If you need any more info please ask.
4870 HD ATi 512MB
E8400 3.00Ghz @ 3.00Ghz
Arctic Cooler(Forgot name, but reviews say it's good so :P)
4GB Corsair 800Mhz
CoolerMaster Scout
Arctic Thermal Paste(Forgot name again)
All drivers installed
XP SP3 32bit
650W CoolerMaster PSU

Even after a reinstall and re driver(ing) it is still the same...

EDIT: By the way this never used to happen even with my old sh**ty case.

A:New PC Build Video Output Dying/Case Fan Problem

By the way this happens after around 30-60 mins of solid gameplay, it will NEVER happen unless I am playing some kind of modern 3D game.

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Hello world,
I'm looking to considerably upgrade my current system, which will become essentially a new system overall.

I was looking into something along these lines:
[Key: Currently Own | Looking To Buy]
Motherboard- Asus Sabertooth Z77.
CPU- Intel Core i5 3570K 3.4Ghz s1155 6MB.
Cooling- Corsair Hydro H100i.
RAM- Kingston HyperX Beast 2x8GB DDR3 1600MHz (x2= a total of 32GB).
GPU- GeForce GTX 460 (768MB).
PSU- Corsair GS600 80PLUS. (is it enough?)
HDD/SSD- *.*
Monitor- *.*
Peripherals- *.*
Case- Open for suggestions!

The rest is less of an issue.

What do you guys think?

A:A New (*upgrade) System Build, Components and Case Questions

The PSU is definitely enough. You could even have two GTX 670s with this PSU.

32 GB would be about 28 GB more than I would ever need, but hey.

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Hello, A couple days ago the laptop bag fell off my shoulder and it bended my left side of the laptop and screen. The laptop is fully functional, the screen has a some dead pixels in the area that it landed but at least is functional.Where can i find some replacement parts to replace the broken pieces ? Does lenovo supply them by any chance ?  So sad that this happened. I really like the laptop and it's performance. 

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I am trying to put another hard drive in this dell opitplex 260x of mine. It is becoming nothing but a pain in the rear cause the case uses them stupid green sliders and the case is too small. Could I use another computer case like remove all the parts and transfer them over to the other case.

say a case like this

A:use another case instead of the dell optiplex case

thats a nice case but if ur willing to blow that kind of money i would get this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811144089 its a full tower so lots of room or this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129021 this one has some of the best airflow and fan capabilities i would buy this one if u have the money
or if ur low on cash get this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811208021 which is really beautiful and cheap (recomend if u dont got cash lol)

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I got a Thermaltake Xaser III case, and instead of screws for the cards, it has convenient little plastic latches. Unfortunately, the size of my Radeon 9800 PRO won't let me close the plastic latch, and so the card just sits loosely in the AGP slot, easily coming out. I'm not going to run a system with a card that loose. Sure, the 9800 PRO is a big card, but I'm having the same problem with my average size sound card (I don't even know what it is. It came in a Dell Dimension 4300). That thing is not big by far, and even it doesn't fit. Am I missing something here? There must be a way to fix these cards in this case.

A:Thermaltake Xaser III case doesn't fit my cards??

There is a design flaw in this chassis design... Look on my site on how to fix it.... it was a good idea, but they screwed up.


It includes IMPORTANT INFORMATION about the firewire port which can damage your board and other hardware!

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Recently gutted one of my store built PC's. Was a HP Media Center pc. Just a simple little computer. Now I gutted the whole pc and began building a new one and just decided to take the CD/dvd - ROM outta the old HP machine. I beleive I bought the old HP back in 2005 or 2006. The question is will the CD/DVD - ROM work in a new machine? Or are the technology advances to great for the CD/dvd - ROM? Right now I'm trouble shooting this PC do to the fact that I used this old CD/DVD ROM and am now having problems installing Windows 7 as the OS in a custome built machine. When the PC begins to load the files from the DVD Windows 7 install disk it eventually stops loading and just sits at a single spot. But it always stops loading at a different point. But never really makes it very far into the install. Anyone have an opinion. Thanks.

A:Old HP CD/DVD -ROM work in new case?

They haven't changed much. If it loads at all, the CD-ROM is not the problem. The only differences between them in the last 10 years or so is that the new ones have SATA connectors, so if yours is connected, it should work fine.

The problem must be with hardware.

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But it boot's outside the case just fine. I have done everything I can to get it fixed but nothing.


Antec 900
Asus P5Q-E
Pentium 4 541
Sapphire 2600XT
2 160GB WD HDD's
1 Sony DVD Burner
OCZ DDR2 800 Memory

I Checked to see if it was the PSU but it wasn't and I fount out through a shorting trick (took a twist tie and put it in the top where the green wire is, and plugged it into a black wire beside it).

Not the motherboard because I tested this outside the case and it turned on a ran with the P4 (so that also states its not the CPU).

Any other options? I don't want to take it to a computer shop but this situation is getting closer to that decision.

Help please!!!

A:Solved: computer doesn't boot inside the case

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i pulled the HD from my laptop and placed it in an 2.5" adaptec enclosure case. connected to both front and back USB ports. tried it connecting both USB cables, then only one (comes with two). Light always comes on, disk whirrs, "eject" icon shows up in system tray, but i can't see the device or files at all in explorer. tried the new 2.5" on a school computer and it worked just fine, so i'm guessing the new case is not the problem. my USB flash drive and printer work fine when they're connected (not now though). i have another 3.5" adaptec enclosure case that works just fine on this comp. there are no outstanding windows updates. also installed drivers that came with the case. i appreciate any assistance you can give me. thanks.

A:explorer doesn't see hard drive/enclosure case

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I recently upgraded my computers motherboard, the ports on the motherboard work perfectly, while the usb2, usb3 and sound ports on the case do not get any connection.the motherboard was installed by a technician, and i opened it up to make sure that all cables were properly plugged in.am i missing something?the motherboard i upgraded to is a Gigabyte GA-B85M-DS3H Rev 1.0to clarify, everything works perfectly, he only thing that does not work is casing ports (usb/sdhc/sound) Any help?

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It says it does but how would it work with different sizes if i used a micro ATX mobo would i still get the full performance

Anyone here familiar with this case or recommend any other micro atx case?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

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hi everyone i am building myself a computer and i have all my hardware and everything already on the way, i made the silly mistake and did not make sure everything would fit into my case. Could you guys please take a look at my setup and let me know if everything should fit nicely with the least amount of budging stuff together thank you very much.

My Hardware:

i know that looking at this stuff will take awhile but i will really appreciate it.
thank you

A:Will my cpu case work for my hardware?

The Antec 900 is a fantastic case. All should work fine.

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So i decided to build a new computer and i got everything connected, hit the power button and the computer wont power up. I have made sure all the power cables are connected well but nothing.

using a intel dp55wg mobo
intel i5 processor
coolermaster gx-750w power supply
xion axp 100 series case.

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have just bought a new case. i have replaced all the components from my old computer to the case, and also a new hard drive. when i switch on it does the memory count and then when that has done it says WAIT... . Then nothing after, i cant get into the bios either so it can detect the HD. i reckon it might somethint do with the PSU i am no really sure, is there a specific way to connect the psu cabling to the floppy drive, hard drive and DVD rom drive, as i reckon it might be something to do with that

- Please use explicit thread titles

A:System will not work in new case (Problems)

it sounds like it's at the point it's determining what's on the ATA cables. could you have them on upside down? the power connectors are pretty simple, although you possibly can get the floppy power cable on backwards on some floppy drives.

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So, here's the deal. My pay blew up at half two this morning and I got a new one, got a new case while I was at it. Problem is both fans have the 3-pin sys_fan power supply and I only have one of those on my mobo. I tried putting the pins from both into the same block and got nowhere, that just made neither of them work. Any ideas? I'd like to have this up and running. with both fans before I start stressing it after I get home tomorrow if at all possible.

A:Solved: Case with two fans, can't get one to work.

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