Hi, this is just the second day with my new Ideapad 700, and I have just noticed that the right part of it (from the bottom right corner up to the top right corner, probably by the 20% of the width) is the noticeably warm. The left is entirely cold. The laptop is not loaded at all, the CPU graphs are below 5% and the laptop itself is not doing any heavy lifting job. How normal is it?Read other answers
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/download.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
hey, I have an OCZ StealthXStream SXS700 700 Watt power supply. i just noticed that the back of the case is warm/very warm to the touch, and the air coming out is pretty warm as well, and the sides of it are very warm as well. Should i be alarmed?
Read other 10 answers
Hi,Have been using Ideapad Z410 from past 6 months. From past week the Laptop shuts down without warning, and the battery level is at 99% or 100%. Only when the unit shutsdown, and when I start up again, that the battery indicator starts from 0 and goes to 99% or 100% and stays there. I have also doen the Battery Meter Reset, but of no benefit.What is the problem, and what should I do.Should I claim under warranty ?
I wouldn't expect much of an answer from them, the same happens to the Z510 I have and it happens to the Z500 models before it, they'll tell you to send it in under warranty but that will not solve the problem as it will happen again after a few months and I need the laptop for work, I didn't buy it so that after half a year I would have to send it away for 2-3 weeks, I bought the thing because it is needed here. They need a battery firmware update but that too is too hard for them to do. These problems are being experienced by people worldwide and I am seriously considering reporting them to watchdog here in the UK. They should not be shipping laptops that have known issues and then offer no fix.Read other 3 answers
I have recently bought Lenovo idepad 110. Im usually using it while plugged-in so Ive decieded to turn on battery conservation in Lenovo settings app.Recently I had to use it on battery because my plug was too far away from it so Ive turned off the battery conservation option so I could charge the battery fully BUT it still only charged up to 60%.Ive even reinstalled lenovo settings app but it still wont charge past 60%.When I first bought it and didnt know there was a battery conservation option it charged normally up to 100% so I guess its some kind of software malfunction.Anyone had any similar experience or knows how to resolve this?Read other answers
Lenovo ideapad z510 , just out of box, and keyboard backlit not working.model no 59-387061http://www.thedostore.com/ideapad-z510-dark-chocolate-59-387061.html I also tried to switch on backlit keyboard by pressing Fn+Space.but it didn't worked. Lenovo claims that all the models of ideapad Z510/z410 have Backlit keyboard.http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/z-series/z510#features I searched some forums to get work this backlit feature. in one forum customer mentioned that if Laptop Space bar have backlit icon it works,but my laptop doesn't have any icon on Space bar.But I again the keyboard I have and images(keyboard) on the Lenovo websites matched. I don't know what do now. I appreciate all the reply's. Thanks in advance.
Yes That info is correct if a keyboard has a backlith Capability, it should have the icon on the Spacebar. and FN+Spacebar should trigger it.
I suggest calling the store where you bought the unit ASAP to verify This cinfiuration on your system,
Did someone help you today? Press the star on the left to thank them with a Kudo!If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"! This will help the rest of the Community with similar issues identify the verified solution and benefit from it.Follow @LenovoForums on Twitter!
My lenovo idepad 500 (win10) (about 1.5 years old) is sometimes hard to start up. It freezes at the moment when the lenovo logo shows up. I have also some problems with the graphics. Quite often the screen starts flashing, and when that stops the graphics are bad and everything is zoomed in. Has anyone had the same kind of problem and/or how to fix it?Read other answers
Hi expert.my problem when i want to choose or highlight part of text i can't highlight if i press easy on touchpad, but when i press hard i can select the text that i want it.i used synaptic pointing device.i guess the problem maybe the touchpad not sufficient sensitive or there is drawback in touchpad it self.please your advice.Read other answers
Hello everyone i hope you are having a nice day! I have an ideapad z510 , i just opened it for a usualy dust cleaning , i have been doing this for long time and never had problems with anything, untill today, after i finish closing the laptop, i trun it on and i notice that the lights of the keyaboards are not working anymore, only the caps and Num lock are working. I tried pressing Fn+Space nothing happens. The lights are okay because when i just start the laptop all the keyboard lights flash on like usual. I checked if the Fn key is working by trying to use Fn+F12/F10 ... and yes it works, also the space key works just fine, i don't know what happened ,it's like the backlit is switched off and that i have to enable it from setting or something. I appreciate all the reply's. Thanks in advance.Read other answers
I bought this laptop lenovo idepad 510-15ISK from a shop in Greece. I added an SSD and upgraded the RAM the same day following sellers advice that the upgrade won't harm the warranty. The same day I detected that laptop were electrocuting me and the next day I returned the product to the seller for replacement. They verified the electric drain and the technician recovered the original HHD and removed the extra ram that I added so as to give it to the official technical support. I have been told that only if the technical support say that this is a problem they will either replace the laptop or return my money back.It seems though that the technical support changed the motherboard of the laptop (approved that SSD and RAM upgrade didn't harm the laptop) and they don't approve the replacement or my money back. This laptop is no longer a new laptop but a refurbished one!!!!! I have already gone to local authorities for local seller, lenovo and official technical support for trying to cheat me and I am already contacting with local media to raise the issue in the Greek market about the tactics of lenovo. Can you please suggest me any other ways before this goes public not only in Greece but also in more European Countries?Read other answers
Hi expert.my problem when i want to choose or highlight part of text i can't highlight if i press easy on touchpad, but when i press hard i can select the text that i want it.i used synaptic pointing device.i guess the problem maybe the touchpad not sufficient sensitive or there is drawback in touchpad it self.please your advice.
Mod's Comment: Please do not start multiple posts on same issue as this only splinters the discussion. Instead, keep your current discussion updated with any additional information. Your duplicate(s) have been merged or removed. Thanks !
Hello everyone i hope you are having a nice day! I have an ideapad z510 , i just opened it for a usualy dust cleaning , i have been doing this for long time and never had problems with anything, untill today, after i finish closing the laptop, i trun it on and i notice that the lights of the keyaboards are not working anymore, only the lights of caps and Num lock are working. I tried pressing Fn+Space nothing happens. The lights are okay because when i just start the laptop all the keyboard lights flash on like usual. I checked if the Fn key is working by trying to use Fn+F12/F10 ... and yes it works, also the space key works just fine, i don't know what happened ,it's like the backlit is switched off and that i have to enable it from setting or something. I appreciate all the reply's. Thanks in advance.
Hello MArleoThanks for using the Lenovo forums.
Try a static discharge for this, it may help to resolve the issue or at least get rid of any built up static on the motherboard.(If the battery is internal, please just skip the remove/replace battery steps.)1. Turn the unit off2. Remove the battery and the Mains adapter3. Press and hold the front power button for 30 seconds4. Replace the battery and the Mains adapter5. Turn the unit on as normal
If it doesn`t work, open it up again, make sure that there is no loose connections, it may be that one of the cables came loose when you put it back together again.
Let us know how you get on.==================================================================================Did someone help you today? Thank them with a Kudo! If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"!
This will help the rest of the Community with similar issues identify the verified solution and benefit from it.
Hello everyone i hope you are having a nice day! I have an ideapad z510 , i just opened it for a usualy dust cleaning , i have been doing this for long time and never had problems with anything, untill today, after i finish closing the laptop, i trun it on and i notice that the lights of the keyaboards are not working anymore, only the lights of caps and Num lock are working. I tried pressing Fn+Space nothing happens. The lights are okay because when i just start the laptop all the keyboard lights flash on like usual. I checked if the Fn key is working by trying to use Fn+F12/F10 ... and yes it works, also the space key works just fine, i don't know what happened ,it's like the backlit is switched off and that i have to enable it from setting or something. I appreciate all the reply's. Thanks in advance.Read other answers
I just upgraded my 'puter to an Amd 2500 with a new asus A7N8X mobo.
Everything is working great, cpu is running at around 40 C with stock cooling even after I overclocked it to 2 ghz... except both my cd drives (one a rw on a reg old cdrom) heat cd's up like crazy even after only a few minutes, which they did not do before the upgrade. They seem to be working fine though... Does anyone have any idea what could cause it? Maybe I plugged em in wrong or something? The temp inside the case does not seem warm at all either.
Thanks for any help!
Read other 14 answers
I have a Pentium 4 running at 3 GHz. The case has the factory CPU fan on it, as well as two additional cooling fans. I was living in a small apartment with no A/C a few weeks ago, and it was always UNGODLY hot in there. I've since moved, and the room the computer is kept in is likewise always REALLY hot. The new place has central A/C. There are 3 dogs and 4 cats living in here -- I can't keep the door open to the room (I'm allergic, they knock things over, etc.)
WHAT can I do to cool down? It's, on average, 10 degrees warmer in here than outside! Okay, yea, I know I can turn it off, and I've started doing that at night, but ... the problem reins during the day, and especially in the evening. I work on my computer constantly.
Help one sweaty computer nerd.
Read other 6 answers
Whenever i am away from my computer for a while like an hour or two, and come back it seems to take a while to "warm up". the first thing i do is start playing music (media monkey), then usually start opera. First it takes a while before any noise, then the music jumpy for a few seconds, then it's good. and it takes longer to open opera, than if i were to close it then open it back up. It's not a problem, it just seems weird. I have process explorer, and no graphs spike until opera actually opens. Is it just taking a while to turn off background processes like system idle process?
This will depend on your power saving options that are set in your system's BIOS and within Windows. Once components have been powered down/set to "inactive" - it'll take some time to re-initialize them in order to get them back up and running properly.
Has this always happened, or is it just recently that it's started? There's other things that can cause this (such as a misbehaving program that doesn't work well with the power saving stuff), so it'll take some troubleshooting to isolate it.
When I leave my computer I lock my account (win+L), and sometimes go to bed without turning it off. I have noticed on a few occasions now that when I arrive back at my pc, the CPU fan's are whirring louder than normal. The temps had been at 60c, when normally they are at 40c. After signing in, I check task manager, and there's nothing there that using the CPU, and after a few minutes the temps drop and life is good again.
What could this be? Does anyone had any good ideas to track whatever it is down? I doubt it's malware because I'm 'web-wise', but I'll run a scan anyway. I feel that Windows is doing something and hiding it from me.
There are lots of scheduled tasks that run in the background and start when the PC is detected to be idle. Once activity resumes on the PC these background tasks often pause and wait for the next idle period. Some examples include indexing, disk defragmentation, disk clean up, etc.
Open Task Scheduler and look down the list of scheduled Microsoft Windows tasks, you will see there are hundreds of them and most of the time you will not even notice them.
Another thing to do is go through the following tutorial and see if there are some tips that you can use to optimize your PC. Look at item 23 for the automatic maintenance settings.
Optimize Performance of Windows 10
How warm should the 8800GTS 640mb be? I just installed it, and at idle it's at 61c, but my 6600GT was 56c when idle. Is this normal?
I have two 120mm fans, one in the back and one in the front. I can only feel a slight breeze coming from the video card's heatsink on the back of the case.
How many PCIE cords should I have plugged in? The instructions had a picture with two, but the instructions are probably sent with all the 8xxx series cards. Besides, I could only find one on the video card.
For that card considering ambient temps, it is normal. Those 8800's run hot compared to previous generation Nvidia cards.
Your PCIE cords are fine. That card only need power from one. The Nvidia Forceware software would adjust anyway if it didn’t receive enough power from the power supply.
It seems like my hard drives running a tad bit hot
Is this normal for a laptop? Should I buy one of those fancy USB laptop coolers that lie on your lap?
Quote: Originally Posted by Mike
It seems like my hard drives running a tad bit hot
Is this normal for a laptop? Should I buy one of those fancy USB laptop coolers that lie on your lap?
Yeah that HDD temp is gettin up there, I think its definitely time to buy a cooler
EDIT: I installed that program just now to see my temps and I think it might not be accurate because my CPU temps are a hell of a lot lower than when I had XP on my PC (or W7 runs cooler... yay windows 7!) They used to always be 40's to 50's and now they are like this:
I have a ABIT KT7A-RAID, AMD Thunderbird 1.2 with a 400W PS... Now here's my current "issue" - My computer does not seem to want to warm boot. I make a change in the BIOS and exit, windows has to restart, etc, and the thing wont boot. Fans star and hard drives spin but no beeps, video output or keyboard lights. The only way to get it to boot normally at this point is to physically unplug the computers power cord from the wall (while "on"), plug it back in and then hit the power button. I've heard of this charateristic with insufficent PS's but I think my 400W has that covered... ?????
My laptop sits on a pad with two fans cranking away to assist in the cooling.
I added a 3D wallpaper with motion. I thought that I would check the temp. since the fan is cranking away in the computer. Using "Real Temp GT" show four reading (Quad Core) at 171F.
Is this damaging to run these temperatures very long on a laptop. The surface temp feels a little towards very warm rather than just warm. It doesn't feel hot.
I do have two additional fans working on a pad, but. . .?
Thanks for your time.
That's 77 degrees C.
High, but within specifications.
I don't use laptops, but they are known to run hot compared to PCs---that's why you bought the fan gizmo.
I wouldn't worry a lot about it. It may die in 30 seconds whether cool or hot. It may die in 15 years if hot or 25 years if cool. It's a tool that you are using within specs, so use it.
...for a safe, happy, and joyous holiday season to all of you here. I thoroughly enjoy your company and intend to be around for a long time. May your hard drives spin freely and your processors run cool now and throughout the new year.
and a Groovy New Year!
To all who pass through, instead of around, the journey makes the end very sweet indeed.
Right back at you...Enjoy!
[This message has been edited by ebot (edited 12-24-2000).]
I remember a functionality in Vista/XP where you could hold the SHIFT button for a warm reboot which effectively avoided having to go through BIOS POST.
I have tried this in Windows 7 however no luck.
Has this been removed? if so that suck cause i have a RAID controller which takes a long time to go through all of its tests/init.
Are you sure the RAID test is part of POST? your computer must go through POST when it turns on. Windows 7 wouldn't have an effect on this, as it is initiated after the BIOS does its thing.
Have a look through your BIOS settings and see if anything has changed, look for 'quick POST' or something to do with RAID.
If the tests aren't part of POST, and are part of windows init, then I am not sure how to help.
I'm sure it's not an issue, but I just noticed that the plug for my linksys WRT54G wireless router is getting pretty warm to the touch (not so warm that I can't hang on to it). I was just wondering if this is normal because I am always worried about a fire or something melting. Thanks.
Just bought myself an Inspiron 17 5000 series. I'm not happy with the display- the reds are far too warm - just looking at pictures that I can also view on other laptop/ phone, it's nothing like they should be. I know I can modify the colors in settings- but the colors are default ones - I shouldn't have to do anything! Is this how the display always is on these machines or is there something I should do?
I'm not familiar with the model, but a google search found multiple reviews also criticizing the display colors.
If your purchase is still withing the return/refund window, you may want to simply get your money back and purchase a different laptop.
Ok i bought a cold cathode the other day just off ebay. It's just a cheap thing. But when i set it up in my case today and left it there for a bit i discovered it isn't so cold at all. There's really a considerable amount of heat coming from it and more heat is the last thing i want in my case just now so anyway my question is. Do these devices usually still radiate a considerable amount of heat (as this is the first one i've ever owned) or if i got a more expensive one is it likely to be more efficient at keeping heat to a minimum. Thanks Max.
Read other 9 answers
CPU according to conditions used to warm? - Temperature 78% - Fan 90% - due to risk not updated BIOS - that makes a difference? - Fan grilles are free !!
I have until December 2015 TOSHIBA International Warranty - please advise - PC info and conditioning in Annex
The CPU temperature depends on the notebook usage.
If you run some applications which would load the CPU a lot, then the CPU temperature could increase to a higher level.
To decrease the heat dissipation, it could be advisable to decrease the max CPU performance (< 90%).
This can be done in the Windows Advanced Power options.
I don’t know if it would be the option for you but it seems that the change of thermal grease (for example: arctic mx4) could also help to improve the cooling performance.
see other thread:
Hi guys and girls. I just joined the forums andwould like to say hello to all!
I have a nice setup and enjoy gaming and (loosely uses the term) tweaking out my system. I say loosely becuase I know some stuff about computers but not enough to consider myself a techy. I currently play rtcw and have a 9800 pro 128 meg card i was just wondering if any of you might now a good setup for playing this game? eg. video tweaks and making the system run real fast. thanks for you help and looking forward to haging out on the forums and sharing some of my small but useful knowledge with the rest of you!!!
Welcome aboard Sgtarto! I suggest you have a look at TS's very own wide range of tweak articles. You will find these under the "Guides" tab located above.
The bottom left of my NB550D is getting VERY warm, even when the rest if my netbook is cool.
I was wondering what component is this area and if I could just disconnect it. I wouldn't mind losing USB capability or the headphone socket (both of which are located here externally).
Is opening the main part of the case as simple as removing all the screws?
Sounds like the CPU is causing the high temperature since the copper heatsink is on the left side, I dont recommend removing the CPU :p
There may be some dust build up in the vent, you can use Compressed Air to blow the dust out.
Ok, so I have 2 PSUs in my house:
480W TruePowerII Antec - main rig: 1gig of ram, x2 3800+, x850xt, 1 HD
400W Fortron (FSP Group) - emachines rig: 512megs of ram, 6100 IGP, 1 HD, 3000+ sempron
When I feel the air coming out of the fortron, it's cool. Literally. When I feel the air coming out of my antec, it's warm. Not "hot", but warm. Now that I feel it again, it's not "hot" at all, but it IS indeed warm.
Am I to be worried? Or is this normal? I'm just worried because my fortron is all nice and cool, and this baby that's powering my rig is warm...
Also: do you think it's safe to keep running with this one if I were to get a 8800GTS (320MB)? It says it needs a minimum of 400W, which my unit has, and 26A on the +12V rail, which I have as well... my systems isn't really all that loaded:
AMD A64 X2 3800+
1GB Corsair DDR2
4 case fans and 2 LEDs
... pretty much it.
you shouldnt be worried about the warm air coming out of your psu, it has to go somewhere right? Dont worry. Oh and with those rails you should be able to run the gts card fine.
My sister has a HP Pavilion dv6 with an Intel Core i5-540 processor. According to RealTemp, the CPU idles at about 60 degrees and her computer always feels warm.
She is an Architecture Major and uses programs like Adobe Indesign, and Autodesk Revit which make the temps go up to like 80-90 degrees.
Is this normal or is this too hot?
that is a little "warm" to put it lightly. When was the last time you or your sister tried cleaning the dust out of the heatsink assemblies? Turning off the computer and blowing the vents and fan exhaust port with compressed air could help a LOT depending on the build up.
I suggest doing this outside by the way, just in case it is really bad, and I personally remove the keyboard if I can to get in there better, but by all means this is not required.
Usually when I first start playing a game I get a lot if freezes and dropped frames for a few minutes and then it works perfectly. I usually have to start the game over and then no problems.
not that I have ever encountered. I think you have a fault. could be software or hardware. mostly likely drivers issue.
A warm reboot restarts a computer without loss of power to the motherboard. If it's a forced reboot (not sure this is the right way to call it), that is: a reboot produced by a kernel panic, BSOD or by pressing the reset button, what happens to memory?.
During a warm reboot (for example the reboot produced by a BSD, kernel panic or pressing the reset button): is the RAM emptied then refilled again?. I say because, since the motherboard isn't powered off in any moment, does the RAM keep data?. I heard that sometimes it's necessary to actually do a cold reboot to clear memory after a warm boot.
BOOT never clears ram - - while hibernate and shutdown can be so configured.
This is a security exposure if/only if the intruder has physical access to the machine, strips the chips from the box and proceeds to examine the content.
Consider what you know of the difference between HD Quick Format and a Low Level format.
Quick format only writes the free and allocated lists and gives up, assuming the actual sectors are present from the initial Low Level
A Low Level fmt, writes every block in the partition with a sector number, rereads it to verify and if bad, places that sector on the bad list.
Boot does as little memory management as possible - - akin to the hd quick fmt.
Your concern that leftover information in memory contaminates the boot process implies that memory IS being read without ever being written first - - Not during boot!
Just to complete this saga, there is a software bug known as Use After Free, where
a program allocates a block of memory for dynamic use,
saves the pointer to it,
uses it for awhile, usuallin in subroutines
and then gives it back but,
forgets to zero the pointer to it, and being non-zero,then attempts to reuse that same block again. Frequently that block is in-use elsewhere.
Use After Free is nasty to find and the consequences are indeterminable - - corruption of data and/or program failure are typical.
When I ask my system to do a warm start i.e. a restart not a shut down it always does a cold start ie as if I had just pressed the start button on the desktop to start my computer.
I seem to remember that on XP there was a differance between cold start (boot up) and a warm start.
Or am I just getting too old and cannot remember clearly??
Any help appreciated
Restart is a shut down and start up without the screen going black and the machine completely shutting off. XP does essentially the same thing.Read other 2 answers
I have two motherboards i) asus 845glmx ii) gigabyte 845. The problem is that both the cpus containing those motherboards doesnot run though it gets proper power supply from SMPS (the motherboard indicator turns on).I have checked everything from processor to RAM. Everything is OK. What may be the problem. Sometimes it happend that the CPU turns on after a couple of hours when left switched on. Can I repair the motherboard myself. What is the component that has threat. Perhaps, my Motherborad has caused the problem, but which part. In fact, I know a couple of my friends who are facing the same problem; i'm in dialemma.
Perhaps your case power switch is bad? What if you try shorting the power on jumpers? Does the system try to boot then?
I have a P4 3.4ghz 650, on a fatal1ty aa8xe in a coolmaster wave master case. Two front intakes, three rear exhaust and one side. With a themaltake cpu fan. At idle it is about 42C but under full load using burnmax i am getting up to 70C. Is there a way i can just crank my cpu fan on high all the time because when booting it seems to be moving more air, but when it gets to windows it seems to slow down. I have all my low temps in BIOS set to 25c so they are on at all times. It is just frustrating cause i have spent alot on fans and making sure all airflow is good.
XD, your computer fans suck too much air outside rather than inside..., do this..
2 front intakes, 2 rear intakes and one rear exaust just beside CPU, and a side for intakes.
You should download the CPUIdle, that program should bring down your idle temp to 34 and the working for 50 or below.
If not, get new ThermalTake Copper heatsink for your P4!
Responding to a 911 call for help from my folks, I was greeted by an XP Dell P2 300 that refused to start-up. Some files were missing or corrupt and it called for a startup on the CD and hitting R for repair.
Fair enough.... Only it refused to start off a CD despite the bios settings. You could hear it spin-up, but nothing ever happened - as if it didn't even try - and you end up back at the " Corrupt File - Hit R " screen.
Out of frustration I copied over files from C:\windows\system32\config from another PC to the hard drive since it was saying they were corrupt. (I knew that a few of them might not match the Dell config but... what the hey... anything to get a different message! )
VOILA !! ... that got me past that screen and on to the "Windows did not shut down properly" Screen.
! PROGRESS !
- Well.... not much - no matter what mode I choose: Normal.... Safe.... etc, the PC acts as though it is preparing to startup but then does a warm boot and lands back in the "Windows did not shut down properly" screen again. It's like....if it JUST wouldn't interrupt power for that instant... it would move on. But alas.....no joy!
I am in the TwilightZone. Any thoughts as how to move on?
(I was informed that my idea of using an 18 volt battery drill equipped with a 3/8" masonry bit to drill holes -through the front of the case AND the vertically mounted hard drive multiple times - while therapeutic - c... Read more
Read other 13 answers
Sometimes my machine has a problem that requires a cold boot. Memory is not completely cleared with a warm reboot.
My question is: If I hold down the reset button for a few seconds, will memory be completely cleared? If so, how many seconds should I hold down the reset button?
The reason I ask is that my machine has some SCSI drives that take a minute or two to get up to speed from a cold boot.
Thanks for your answer.
As long as power is being fed to the memory chips the memory will remain there. You have to do a cold boot (cut off the power) in order to completely clear DRAM.
A weird problem has developed when booting to Windows7. From a cold start all is well and the computer will run for days, but if I do a warm restart or shut down and start right away it goes to "Starting Windows" with the Windows Logo; stays there for about 10 seconds then appears to carry on but that's as far as it goes. I have a blank screen with mouse that I can move around, but the "Welcome Screen" doesn't happen. I have to do a hard shut down; wait for no more than five minutes and it will start up fine. My cpu temps are under 40C.
Any ideas out there?
Here is my machine:
MB: Gigabyte P55A-UD4P ATX LGA1156
CPU: Intel Core i5 750 Quad Core Processor
Mem: 8GB G.SKILL Ripjaws PC3-12800
NVIDIA GeForce GT 220
Ubuntu, Fedora, Sabayon and Win7/64
Check your ram.
Memory Diagnostics Tool
Memtest86+ - Advanced Memory Diagnostic Tool
Check your HD.
SFC /SCANNOW Command - System File Checker
Check with a hard drive diagnostic tools.
Hard Drive Diagnostics Tools and Utilities (Storage) - TACKtech Corp.