Hi, this is just the second day with my new Ideapad 700, and I have just noticed that the right part of it (from the bottom right corner up to the top right corner, probably by the 20% of the width) is the noticeably warm. The left is entirely cold. The laptop is not loaded at all, the CPU graphs are below 5% and the laptop itself is not doing any heavy lifting job. How normal is it?Read other answers
I recommend downloading and running Reimage. It's a computer repair tool that has been proven to identify and fix many Windows problems with a high level of success.
I've used it in the past to identify and fix everything from blue screens (BSOD's), ActiveX errors, corrupt files and processes, dll/exe/sys errors, recover lost memory, Windows update problems, defragging, malware removal etc.
You can download it direct from this link http://downloadreimage.com/download.php. (This link will automatically start a download of Reimage that you can save to your computer.)
hey, I have an OCZ StealthXStream SXS700 700 Watt power supply. i just noticed that the back of the case is warm/very warm to the touch, and the air coming out is pretty warm as well, and the sides of it are very warm as well. Should i be alarmed?
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Hi,Have been using Ideapad Z410 from past 6 months. From past week the Laptop shuts down without warning, and the battery level is at 99% or 100%. Only when the unit shutsdown, and when I start up again, that the battery indicator starts from 0 and goes to 99% or 100% and stays there. I have also doen the Battery Meter Reset, but of no benefit.What is the problem, and what should I do.Should I claim under warranty ?
I wouldn't expect much of an answer from them, the same happens to the Z510 I have and it happens to the Z500 models before it, they'll tell you to send it in under warranty but that will not solve the problem as it will happen again after a few months and I need the laptop for work, I didn't buy it so that after half a year I would have to send it away for 2-3 weeks, I bought the thing because it is needed here. They need a battery firmware update but that too is too hard for them to do. These problems are being experienced by people worldwide and I am seriously considering reporting them to watchdog here in the UK. They should not be shipping laptops that have known issues and then offer no fix.Read other 3 answers
Lenovo ideapad z510 , just out of box, and keyboard backlit not working.model no 59-387061http://www.thedostore.com/ideapad-z510-dark-chocolate-59-387061.html I also tried to switch on backlit keyboard by pressing Fn+Space.but it didn't worked. Lenovo claims that all the models of ideapad Z510/z410 have Backlit keyboard.http://shop.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/z-series/z510#features I searched some forums to get work this backlit feature. in one forum customer mentioned that if Laptop Space bar have backlit icon it works,but my laptop doesn't have any icon on Space bar.But I again the keyboard I have and images(keyboard) on the Lenovo websites matched. I don't know what do now. I appreciate all the reply's. Thanks in advance.
Yes That info is correct if a keyboard has a backlith Capability, it should have the icon on the Spacebar. and FN+Spacebar should trigger it.
I suggest calling the store where you bought the unit ASAP to verify This cinfiuration on your system,
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When I leave my computer I lock my account (win+L), and sometimes go to bed without turning it off. I have noticed on a few occasions now that when I arrive back at my pc, the CPU fan's are whirring louder than normal. The temps had been at 60c, when normally they are at 40c. After signing in, I check task manager, and there's nothing there that using the CPU, and after a few minutes the temps drop and life is good again.
What could this be? Does anyone had any good ideas to track whatever it is down? I doubt it's malware because I'm 'web-wise', but I'll run a scan anyway. I feel that Windows is doing something and hiding it from me.
There are lots of scheduled tasks that run in the background and start when the PC is detected to be idle. Once activity resumes on the PC these background tasks often pause and wait for the next idle period. Some examples include indexing, disk defragmentation, disk clean up, etc.
Open Task Scheduler and look down the list of scheduled Microsoft Windows tasks, you will see there are hundreds of them and most of the time you will not even notice them.
Another thing to do is go through the following tutorial and see if there are some tips that you can use to optimize your PC. Look at item 23 for the automatic maintenance settings.
Optimize Performance of Windows 10
I just upgraded my 'puter to an Amd 2500 with a new asus A7N8X mobo.
Everything is working great, cpu is running at around 40 C with stock cooling even after I overclocked it to 2 ghz... except both my cd drives (one a rw on a reg old cdrom) heat cd's up like crazy even after only a few minutes, which they did not do before the upgrade. They seem to be working fine though... Does anyone have any idea what could cause it? Maybe I plugged em in wrong or something? The temp inside the case does not seem warm at all either.
Thanks for any help!
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I have a Pentium 4 running at 3 GHz. The case has the factory CPU fan on it, as well as two additional cooling fans. I was living in a small apartment with no A/C a few weeks ago, and it was always UNGODLY hot in there. I've since moved, and the room the computer is kept in is likewise always REALLY hot. The new place has central A/C. There are 3 dogs and 4 cats living in here -- I can't keep the door open to the room (I'm allergic, they knock things over, etc.)
WHAT can I do to cool down? It's, on average, 10 degrees warmer in here than outside! Okay, yea, I know I can turn it off, and I've started doing that at night, but ... the problem reins during the day, and especially in the evening. I work on my computer constantly.
Help one sweaty computer nerd.
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How warm should the 8800GTS 640mb be? I just installed it, and at idle it's at 61c, but my 6600GT was 56c when idle. Is this normal?
I have two 120mm fans, one in the back and one in the front. I can only feel a slight breeze coming from the video card's heatsink on the back of the case.
How many PCIE cords should I have plugged in? The instructions had a picture with two, but the instructions are probably sent with all the 8xxx series cards. Besides, I could only find one on the video card.
For that card considering ambient temps, it is normal. Those 8800's run hot compared to previous generation Nvidia cards.
Your PCIE cords are fine. That card only need power from one. The Nvidia Forceware software would adjust anyway if it didn’t receive enough power from the power supply.
It seems like my hard drives running a tad bit hot
Is this normal for a laptop? Should I buy one of those fancy USB laptop coolers that lie on your lap?
Quote: Originally Posted by Mike
It seems like my hard drives running a tad bit hot
Is this normal for a laptop? Should I buy one of those fancy USB laptop coolers that lie on your lap?
Yeah that HDD temp is gettin up there, I think its definitely time to buy a cooler
EDIT: I installed that program just now to see my temps and I think it might not be accurate because my CPU temps are a hell of a lot lower than when I had XP on my PC (or W7 runs cooler... yay windows 7!) They used to always be 40's to 50's and now they are like this:
Whenever i am away from my computer for a while like an hour or two, and come back it seems to take a while to "warm up". the first thing i do is start playing music (media monkey), then usually start opera. First it takes a while before any noise, then the music jumpy for a few seconds, then it's good. and it takes longer to open opera, than if i were to close it then open it back up. It's not a problem, it just seems weird. I have process explorer, and no graphs spike until opera actually opens. Is it just taking a while to turn off background processes like system idle process?
This will depend on your power saving options that are set in your system's BIOS and within Windows. Once components have been powered down/set to "inactive" - it'll take some time to re-initialize them in order to get them back up and running properly.
Has this always happened, or is it just recently that it's started? There's other things that can cause this (such as a misbehaving program that doesn't work well with the power saving stuff), so it'll take some troubleshooting to isolate it.
Ok i bought a cold cathode the other day just off ebay. It's just a cheap thing. But when i set it up in my case today and left it there for a bit i discovered it isn't so cold at all. There's really a considerable amount of heat coming from it and more heat is the last thing i want in my case just now so anyway my question is. Do these devices usually still radiate a considerable amount of heat (as this is the first one i've ever owned) or if i got a more expensive one is it likely to be more efficient at keeping heat to a minimum. Thanks Max.
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The bottom left of my NB550D is getting VERY warm, even when the rest if my netbook is cool.
I was wondering what component is this area and if I could just disconnect it. I wouldn't mind losing USB capability or the headphone socket (both of which are located here externally).
Is opening the main part of the case as simple as removing all the screws?
Sounds like the CPU is causing the high temperature since the copper heatsink is on the left side, I dont recommend removing the CPU :p
There may be some dust build up in the vent, you can use Compressed Air to blow the dust out.
I have a ABIT KT7A-RAID, AMD Thunderbird 1.2 with a 400W PS... Now here's my current "issue" - My computer does not seem to want to warm boot. I make a change in the BIOS and exit, windows has to restart, etc, and the thing wont boot. Fans star and hard drives spin but no beeps, video output or keyboard lights. The only way to get it to boot normally at this point is to physically unplug the computers power cord from the wall (while "on"), plug it back in and then hit the power button. I've heard of this charateristic with insufficent PS's but I think my 400W has that covered... ?????
I'm sure it's not an issue, but I just noticed that the plug for my linksys WRT54G wireless router is getting pretty warm to the touch (not so warm that I can't hang on to it). I was just wondering if this is normal because I am always worried about a fire or something melting. Thanks.
CPU according to conditions used to warm? - Temperature 78% - Fan 90% - due to risk not updated BIOS - that makes a difference? - Fan grilles are free !!
I have until December 2015 TOSHIBA International Warranty - please advise - PC info and conditioning in Annex
The CPU temperature depends on the notebook usage.
If you run some applications which would load the CPU a lot, then the CPU temperature could increase to a higher level.
To decrease the heat dissipation, it could be advisable to decrease the max CPU performance (< 90%).
This can be done in the Windows Advanced Power options.
I don’t know if it would be the option for you but it seems that the change of thermal grease (for example: arctic mx4) could also help to improve the cooling performance.
see other thread:
Hi guys and girls. I just joined the forums andwould like to say hello to all!
I have a nice setup and enjoy gaming and (loosely uses the term) tweaking out my system. I say loosely becuase I know some stuff about computers but not enough to consider myself a techy. I currently play rtcw and have a 9800 pro 128 meg card i was just wondering if any of you might now a good setup for playing this game? eg. video tweaks and making the system run real fast. thanks for you help and looking forward to haging out on the forums and sharing some of my small but useful knowledge with the rest of you!!!
Welcome aboard Sgtarto! I suggest you have a look at TS's very own wide range of tweak articles. You will find these under the "Guides" tab located above.
I remember a functionality in Vista/XP where you could hold the SHIFT button for a warm reboot which effectively avoided having to go through BIOS POST.
I have tried this in Windows 7 however no luck.
Has this been removed? if so that suck cause i have a RAID controller which takes a long time to go through all of its tests/init.
Are you sure the RAID test is part of POST? your computer must go through POST when it turns on. Windows 7 wouldn't have an effect on this, as it is initiated after the BIOS does its thing.
Have a look through your BIOS settings and see if anything has changed, look for 'quick POST' or something to do with RAID.
If the tests aren't part of POST, and are part of windows init, then I am not sure how to help.
Ok, so I have 2 PSUs in my house:
480W TruePowerII Antec - main rig: 1gig of ram, x2 3800+, x850xt, 1 HD
400W Fortron (FSP Group) - emachines rig: 512megs of ram, 6100 IGP, 1 HD, 3000+ sempron
When I feel the air coming out of the fortron, it's cool. Literally. When I feel the air coming out of my antec, it's warm. Not "hot", but warm. Now that I feel it again, it's not "hot" at all, but it IS indeed warm.
Am I to be worried? Or is this normal? I'm just worried because my fortron is all nice and cool, and this baby that's powering my rig is warm...
Also: do you think it's safe to keep running with this one if I were to get a 8800GTS (320MB)? It says it needs a minimum of 400W, which my unit has, and 26A on the +12V rail, which I have as well... my systems isn't really all that loaded:
AMD A64 X2 3800+
1GB Corsair DDR2
4 case fans and 2 LEDs
... pretty much it.
you shouldnt be worried about the warm air coming out of your psu, it has to go somewhere right? Dont worry. Oh and with those rails you should be able to run the gts card fine.
My laptop sits on a pad with two fans cranking away to assist in the cooling.
I added a 3D wallpaper with motion. I thought that I would check the temp. since the fan is cranking away in the computer. Using "Real Temp GT" show four reading (Quad Core) at 171F.
Is this damaging to run these temperatures very long on a laptop. The surface temp feels a little towards very warm rather than just warm. It doesn't feel hot.
I do have two additional fans working on a pad, but. . .?
Thanks for your time.
That's 77 degrees C.
High, but within specifications.
I don't use laptops, but they are known to run hot compared to PCs---that's why you bought the fan gizmo.
I wouldn't worry a lot about it. It may die in 30 seconds whether cool or hot. It may die in 15 years if hot or 25 years if cool. It's a tool that you are using within specs, so use it.
...for a safe, happy, and joyous holiday season to all of you here. I thoroughly enjoy your company and intend to be around for a long time. May your hard drives spin freely and your processors run cool now and throughout the new year.
and a Groovy New Year!
To all who pass through, instead of around, the journey makes the end very sweet indeed.
Right back at you...Enjoy!
[This message has been edited by ebot (edited 12-24-2000).]
My sister has a HP Pavilion dv6 with an Intel Core i5-540 processor. According to RealTemp, the CPU idles at about 60 degrees and her computer always feels warm.
She is an Architecture Major and uses programs like Adobe Indesign, and Autodesk Revit which make the temps go up to like 80-90 degrees.
Is this normal or is this too hot?
that is a little "warm" to put it lightly. When was the last time you or your sister tried cleaning the dust out of the heatsink assemblies? Turning off the computer and blowing the vents and fan exhaust port with compressed air could help a LOT depending on the build up.
I suggest doing this outside by the way, just in case it is really bad, and I personally remove the keyboard if I can to get in there better, but by all means this is not required.
Just bought myself an Inspiron 17 5000 series. I'm not happy with the display- the reds are far too warm - just looking at pictures that I can also view on other laptop/ phone, it's nothing like they should be. I know I can modify the colors in settings- but the colors are default ones - I shouldn't have to do anything! Is this how the display always is on these machines or is there something I should do?
I'm not familiar with the model, but a google search found multiple reviews also criticizing the display colors.
If your purchase is still withing the return/refund window, you may want to simply get your money back and purchase a different laptop.
I have recently installed an Adaptec RAID1220 SA controller on my son’s brandnew game computer. There is an Asus P5K motherboard in it. Things are rolling as they should under Vista. However, since he experienced some other problems with Vista we have decided to install XP. I wish we didn’t…
Everything works fine if the system goes through a cold boot. Warm booting however results in “hanging” after loading a considerable amount of drivers. So it seems to me that somehow residues of XP are blocking something, most likely the RAID controller driver. I did try to force the RAID controller in the utility menu for the RAID controller but that did not help. Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Sometimes my machine has a problem that requires a cold boot. Memory is not completely cleared with a warm reboot.
My question is: If I hold down the reset button for a few seconds, will memory be completely cleared? If so, how many seconds should I hold down the reset button?
The reason I ask is that my machine has some SCSI drives that take a minute or two to get up to speed from a cold boot.
Thanks for your answer.
As long as power is being fed to the memory chips the memory will remain there. You have to do a cold boot (cut off the power) in order to completely clear DRAM.
I have a Wintergreen PC that will not warm boot. I have 20 of the exact same machines in the office, and this is the only one with the problem. They are approximately 3 years old. When I try to reboot, the computer seems to hang before the RAM tick. If the CD rom is connected, The CD rom seeks.
If I turn the power completely off, the computer boots up fine, but the computer will not reboot when exiting from windows or pressing the reset button. It also has difficulty resuming from the screen saver.
Motherboard: Socket 370 M758 series: onboard video, lan, sound.
Bios Version: Amibios 1.21.06
CPU: Celeron 1.2 Ghz
RAM: 128 PC133
HD: MAxtor 4D080H4 --80GB
I have tried resetting the Bios to Otimal settings, and Default Settings. I have tried switching Ram chips, and also moving the RAM to the other slot. I have disconnected the CD Rom, and Floppy. I have changed the HD and moved the HD connector to the other IDE. I changed the power supply. I have also confirmed that all pins and connectors on the motherboard are connected correctly. All fans are operational, so I don't believe that it is a heating issue. At this point, I believe that I have changed everything except the motherboard and the CPU.
Does anyone have any ideas?
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A weird problem has developed when booting to Windows7. From a cold start all is well and the computer will run for days, but if I do a warm restart or shut down and start right away it goes to "Starting Windows" with the Windows Logo; stays there for about 10 seconds then appears to carry on but that's as far as it goes. I have a blank screen with mouse that I can move around, but the "Welcome Screen" doesn't happen. I have to do a hard shut down; wait for no more than five minutes and it will start up fine. My cpu temps are under 40C.
Any ideas out there?
Here is my machine:
MB: Gigabyte P55A-UD4P ATX LGA1156
CPU: Intel Core i5 750 Quad Core Processor
Mem: 8GB G.SKILL Ripjaws PC3-12800
NVIDIA GeForce GT 220
Ubuntu, Fedora, Sabayon and Win7/64
Check your ram.
Memory Diagnostics Tool
Memtest86+ - Advanced Memory Diagnostic Tool
Check your HD.
SFC /SCANNOW Command - System File Checker
Check with a hard drive diagnostic tools.
Hard Drive Diagnostics Tools and Utilities (Storage) - TACKtech Corp.
When I ask my system to do a warm start i.e. a restart not a shut down it always does a cold start ie as if I had just pressed the start button on the desktop to start my computer.
I seem to remember that on XP there was a differance between cold start (boot up) and a warm start.
Or am I just getting too old and cannot remember clearly??
Any help appreciated
Restart is a shut down and start up without the screen going black and the machine completely shutting off. XP does essentially the same thing.Read other 2 answers
Responding to a 911 call for help from my folks, I was greeted by an XP Dell P2 300 that refused to start-up. Some files were missing or corrupt and it called for a startup on the CD and hitting R for repair.
Fair enough.... Only it refused to start off a CD despite the bios settings. You could hear it spin-up, but nothing ever happened - as if it didn't even try - and you end up back at the " Corrupt File - Hit R " screen.
Out of frustration I copied over files from C:\windows\system32\config from another PC to the hard drive since it was saying they were corrupt. (I knew that a few of them might not match the Dell config but... what the hey... anything to get a different message! )
VOILA !! ... that got me past that screen and on to the "Windows did not shut down properly" Screen.
! PROGRESS !
- Well.... not much - no matter what mode I choose: Normal.... Safe.... etc, the PC acts as though it is preparing to startup but then does a warm boot and lands back in the "Windows did not shut down properly" screen again. It's like....if it JUST wouldn't interrupt power for that instant... it would move on. But alas.....no joy!
I am in the TwilightZone. Any thoughts as how to move on?
(I was informed that my idea of using an 18 volt battery drill equipped with a 3/8" masonry bit to drill holes -through the front of the case AND the vertically mounted hard drive multiple times - while therapeutic - c... Read more
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I'm not sure this is the right forum because I don't know what's causing the problem. But since it happens BEFORE I even log into Windows I'm guessing it must be a hardware problem.
When I turn on my pc nothing happens for about 15-20 seconds. Then, the screen remains black, but it makes a repeating beeping sound that I can only describe as the sound of a police siren IN EUROPE. Like "weee you, weee you, weee you..."
I have to turn it off and back on a couple of time before it will boot up!
I don't know if this is related or if I have ANOTHER PROBLEM, but when it DOES boot up, it's UNBELIEVABLY SLOW! (Takes Windows over TWO MINUTES to load) But seems to get faster as it warms up. I also noticed when I ran AVG in safe mode the log showed a lot of files were not scanned because they were locked.
-------------------------------------- 0 --------------------------------------------
My system info:
Tech Support Guy System Info Utility version 188.8.131.52
OS Version: Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition, Service Pack 3, 32 bit
Processor: Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU 3.20GHz, x86 Family 15 Model 4 Stepping 1
Processor Count: 1
RAM: 247 Mb
Graphics Card: Intel(R) 82865G Graphics Controller, 64 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 38162 MB, Free - 25974 MB;
Motherboard: , I865G
Antivirus: AVG Anti-Virus Free, Updated: Yes, On-Demand Scanner: Enabled
Any help would be greatly appreciated
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Hi I have a dell inspiron 15 laptop that's dead, tried every thing to get it on hard reset and all. What concerns me is that I noticed the CPU starts to gettin warm as soon as I plug in the charger can someone explain to my why and if there is hope for the laptop
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Since the morning we are not able to process any network job our systems are not able to browse network or work on centralized applications, even internet we are not able to establish
system event id shows warining 4226 TCP/IP has reached the security limit imposed on the number of concurrent tcp connect attempts
please help we installed xp sp3 and we have trend micro office scan but its not detecting anything
This link may be helpful
Every time i switch on, it will take 15 minutes before I can start to use the lap top.
For example, I will click on one icon on the desktop, nothing happens, so frustrating waiting for my lap top to warm up before I can do any thing, I must admit, it does get warm.
Maybe you should configure preinstalled OS on the right way.
I don't know which notebook model and operating system do you have but it is for me definitely configurations problem.
Use advanced search option and you will find many useful threads where people wrote about OS configuration for faster start-up.
Usually when I first start playing a game I get a lot if freezes and dropped frames for a few minutes and then it works perfectly. I usually have to start the game over and then no problems.
not that I have ever encountered. I think you have a fault. could be software or hardware. mostly likely drivers issue.
A warm reboot restarts a computer without loss of power to the motherboard. If it's a forced reboot (not sure this is the right way to call it), that is: a reboot produced by a kernel panic, BSOD or by pressing the reset button, what happens to memory?.
During a warm reboot (for example the reboot produced by a BSD, kernel panic or pressing the reset button): is the RAM emptied then refilled again?. I say because, since the motherboard isn't powered off in any moment, does the RAM keep data?. I heard that sometimes it's necessary to actually do a cold reboot to clear memory after a warm boot.
BOOT never clears ram - - while hibernate and shutdown can be so configured.
This is a security exposure if/only if the intruder has physical access to the machine, strips the chips from the box and proceeds to examine the content.
Consider what you know of the difference between HD Quick Format and a Low Level format.
Quick format only writes the free and allocated lists and gives up, assuming the actual sectors are present from the initial Low Level
A Low Level fmt, writes every block in the partition with a sector number, rereads it to verify and if bad, places that sector on the bad list.
Boot does as little memory management as possible - - akin to the hd quick fmt.
Your concern that leftover information in memory contaminates the boot process implies that memory IS being read without ever being written first - - Not during boot!
Just to complete this saga, there is a software bug known as Use After Free, where
a program allocates a block of memory for dynamic use,
saves the pointer to it,
uses it for awhile, usuallin in subroutines
and then gives it back but,
forgets to zero the pointer to it, and being non-zero,then attempts to reuse that same block again. Frequently that block is in-use elsewhere.
Use After Free is nasty to find and the consequences are indeterminable - - corruption of data and/or program failure are typical.
I have two motherboards i) asus 845glmx ii) gigabyte 845. The problem is that both the cpus containing those motherboards doesnot run though it gets proper power supply from SMPS (the motherboard indicator turns on).I have checked everything from processor to RAM. Everything is OK. What may be the problem. Sometimes it happend that the CPU turns on after a couple of hours when left switched on. Can I repair the motherboard myself. What is the component that has threat. Perhaps, my Motherborad has caused the problem, but which part. In fact, I know a couple of my friends who are facing the same problem; i'm in dialemma.
Perhaps your case power switch is bad? What if you try shorting the power on jumpers? Does the system try to boot then?
Hi, I faced a problem with my computer when I want to open any of my disk drive, I can't open theme unless by opening the right click and clicking on open or explore. When I do so, a message appear to me in the top of the right menu's cilck says:''IF FREEDOM IS OUTLAWED, ONLY OUTLAWS WILL HAVE FREEDOM''. Please help me to remove this thing from my computer. another thing, When this message start to appear to me, some times my computer turn off when I work on it with out any warning, and I can't turn it one againe directly. I can turn it one after 1 minute at less. Please help me in this thing. I send you the log of the ( main.txt) and after it I'll send the log of ( extra.txt).thank you very much for everything. (the (main.txt))Deckard's System Scanner v20071014.68Run by nipeal on 2008-04-28 01:58:16Computer is in Normal Mode.---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- System Restore --------------------------------------------------------------Successfully created a Deckard's System Scanner Restore Point.-- Last 5 Restore Point(s) --29: 2008-04-28 08:58:18 UTC - RP29 - Deckard's System Scanner Restore Point28: 2008-04-28 08:39:50 UTC - RP28 - Installed STOPzilla. Available with Windows Installer version 1.2 and later.27: 2008-04-26 04:49:29 UTC - RP27 - Software Distribution Service 3.026: 2008-04-26 02:51:18 UTC - RP26 - Printer Driver Canon LBP2900 Installed25: 2008-04-26 02:51:04 UTC - RP25 - Installed Canon LBP2900-- First Restore... Read more
Hi and welcome to Bleeping Computer! My name is Sam and I will be helping you. Download Dr.Web CureIt to the desktop:ftp://ftp.drweb.com/pub/drweb/cureit/drweb-cureit.exeDoubleclick the drweb-cureit.exe file and Allow to run the express scanThis will scan the files currently running in memory and when something is found, click the yes button when it asks you if you want to cure it. This is only a short scan.Once the short scan has finished, mark the drives that you want to scan.Select all drives. A red dot shows which drives have been chosen.Click the green arrow at the right, and the scan will start.Click 'Yes to all' if it asks if you want to cure/move the file.When the scan has finished, in the menu, click file and choose save report listSave the report to your desktop. The report will be called DrWeb.csvClose Dr.Web Cureit.Please post the contents of the log from DrWeb and a new DSS log in your next reply.Read other 2 answers
My Portege R930 (PT331E - i7) is getting quite warm nowadays, earlier it was very silent, now the fan is at 70% most of the time.
I have opened the bottom lid and checked the cooling paste on top of the processor - seemed quite dry.
Should I change the paste? I have cleaned the fan.
What can I do else?
If you have already disassembled your notebook and cleaned cooling vents and cooling grill you can also change the grease if you know how to do this. I mean, why not. Notebook is already opened.
Usually after cooling system cleaning notebook should work much quieter. Few years ago I?ve done this on my machine. I found so many dust inside that has ?blocked? air circulation.
I have a P4 3.4ghz 650, on a fatal1ty aa8xe in a coolmaster wave master case. Two front intakes, three rear exhaust and one side. With a themaltake cpu fan. At idle it is about 42C but under full load using burnmax i am getting up to 70C. Is there a way i can just crank my cpu fan on high all the time because when booting it seems to be moving more air, but when it gets to windows it seems to slow down. I have all my low temps in BIOS set to 25c so they are on at all times. It is just frustrating cause i have spent alot on fans and making sure all airflow is good.
XD, your computer fans suck too much air outside rather than inside..., do this..
2 front intakes, 2 rear intakes and one rear exaust just beside CPU, and a side for intakes.
You should download the CPUIdle, that program should bring down your idle temp to 34 and the working for 50 or below.
If not, get new ThermalTake Copper heatsink for your P4!
I don't know if this should go in this forum or hardware. Since the monitor works in all other respects I am going with this is a software glitch. Just this last week out of the blue , when I warm boot (Start-turn off- restart) the monitor does not give any image other than all black unless I physically turn it off and back on and then it will show the image as to where it is in the start up phase. A total turn off and back on (cold boot) gives perfect results. What controls the restart of the hardware module over shut down? Is it in the registry to have it function in an alternate pattern? I would appreciate any suggestions into this matter.
Thank you, Plysne
I've got a GX240 at work that seems to be running hot all of a sudden. with loads well under 10% (usually under 5% from checking the task manager) the CPU fan sounds like a jet and moves air like one too. i've checked and cleaned everything out so its not a blockage problem and i can't moniter anything with speedan because it either has no sensors or at least none speedfan can detect. the air coming out from the cpu fan is also a bit on the warm side but not super hot so it suggests heat production but i can't determine from where or why. if anyone has any insight or ideas on what may be causing this, let me know. thanks
make sure that all fans are working and none are obstructed by cables when the cover is closed.
I have an HP Pavilion dv5 2040 laptop running Windows 7 which I purchased in 2011. After I?ve been using it for 7-10 hours, It starts running very warm on the bottom left. According to Core-Temp, the temperature is well within the parameters of the normal range even when it feels quite hot. Eventually, the fan comes on for about 30 seconds and stops; it does this about 6 times, stops for 5-10 minutes, then starts up again.
I had the inside of the computer cleaned out by a professional computer expert about 4 months ago ? this was the first time I ever had this done. The computer did not get warm on the bottom for about 3 months and then it started getting progressively warmer. I bought a Taragus Chill Mat+ which so far is keeping the heat down, but I read a comment on the Internet that if your computer I running warm you need to find out why and fix the problem rather then relying on a cooling mat.
Yes, this is an older computer and I do plan to buy a newer laptop in the next few months. In the meantime, I need to keep this one going. I was hoping I could maintain this laptop as a spare indefinitely.
Does anyone have any idea what is wrong? Thanks in advance for any help.